December 1, 5 a.m. A cold wet morning in a tilted two-room adobe-and-cement block house, Maria Rodriguez Muñoz’s place. She was up early by rural habit. In the corral, beneath the plank-roofed lean-to, her brother, Tomas, had already milked his four cows. With rough efficiency, he was loading cantaras (milk cans) into his ancient pickup. He delivered cheese, cream and milk to customers who preferred economically priced bronco (unpasteurized) milk. A taciturn campesino, he liked working alone.
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